{"id":4315,"date":"2014-11-25T07:30:06","date_gmt":"2014-11-25T17:30:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/suggestionofmotion.com\/auto-draft\/"},"modified":"2014-11-24T16:41:05","modified_gmt":"2014-11-25T02:41:05","slug":"panasonic-gh4-audio-input-options","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/suggestionofmotion.com\/blog\/panasonic-gh4-audio-input-options\/","title":{"rendered":"The Definitive Guide to Audio Input Options for the Panasonic GH4"},"content":{"rendered":"
There are several ways to send audio to the Panasonic GH4. The real challenge is choosing the option that takes care of business without hindering your productivity on set.<\/p>\n
Every project has different audio requirements. This guide lays out the pros and cons of each audio input option so that you can quickly choose the best option for your project.<\/p>\n
Why is it important to familiarize yourself with different audio input options before selecting what to use for your project? Why not just get a device that does it all and call it a day?<\/p>\n
One word: Complexity<\/strong>.<\/p>\n Complexity will slow down your production– it may even kill it. Time is something most productions cannot afford to waste, and using an audio input option that is more complex than you need is a sure way to burn precious rocket fuel.<\/p>\n What does complexity mean for your production?<\/p>\n Some productions need a more complex solution, and these are some of the costs that they have to accept. If a simpler solution does the job, use it.<\/p>\n Bottom line:<\/strong> An all-in-one device sounds nice, but sometimes a simpler<\/em> audio input option will meet your project’s audio requirements just as well, without adding unnecessary complexity. Choosing the right input option saves you time and makes you more productive.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n Small DSLR\/hybrid cameras like the Panasonic GH4 are not blessed with professional XLR audio inputs. Instead, like most small cameras, the Panasonic GH4 has a 3.5mm stereo jack for sending external audio into the camera.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n A 3.5mm plug is easily unplugged, is prone to RF interference (unbalanced), and is not particularly robust.<\/p>\n In short, the GH4’s audio input is not the ideal starting point for solid audio. That said, this is part of the deal when you’re working with any DSLR\/hybrid camera. It’s what we have to work with, and for the most part, it does the job<\/strong>.<\/p>\n Note:<\/strong> The GH4 is unique in that there is a custom-built accessory that provides more robust audio input options (locking, balanced, etc.). We’ll cover this accessory later in this guide.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Bottom line:<\/strong> Any audio input device you use will need to output to a 3.5mm stereo plug to work with the GH4. You can use adapter cables, but just remember that every connection in your audio chain adds another potential point of failure.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Here are the different audio input options, starting with the simplest option:<\/p>\n Direct input simply means you plug the microphone directly<\/em> into the GH4’s audio input. As no additional equipment is required, this is the simplest input option of all.<\/p>\n Here are some examples of mics that can be directly connected to the GH4:<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Rode’s Videomic Pro is a standard fixture on my GH4, especially for documentary\/run & gun work. It does a good job of picking up natural environmental sound, but it is also directional enough for fairly clear outdoor interviews (use Micover’s windscreen<\/a> to block wind noise).<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Rode’s Videomic Go is a simplified version of the Videomic Pro. While it lacks the Pro’s gain presets, it is also fully powered by the GH4’s audio input and does not require any batteries.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n A lavalier mic like the Rode Lavalier is ideal when you need to get the mic as close to the speaker as possible (e.g. interviews). These small mics clip to a person’s shirt or tie, allowing you position the mic closer to the mouth for optimal clarity.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Bottom line:<\/strong> Directly connecting microphones to the GH4 keeps things simple, but the lack of control over audio levels can be limiting in many situations.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n A passive attenuator adds some much needed control over audio levels compared to directly connecting a mic to the GH4. With an attenuator, you can lower a strong signal into optimal range for the GH4’s audio input.<\/p>\n For example, the Rode Videomic Pro’s +20dB gain setting provides nice clean audio, but it is way<\/em> too strong for the GH4. An attenuator allows you to take control over this strong signal, and dial it down to the proper level.<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Beachtek’s adapter is a regular part of my camera setup when I’m using self-powered mics like the Rode Videomic Pro or a wireless system like the Sennheiser G3<\/a>. With this adapter, you can fully dial in the levels for these mics, providing you with very nice in-camera audio.<\/p>\n As a bonus, the MCC-2 also combines two mono audio inputs into a single stereo output, allowing you to connect two mics to the GH4 simultaneously.<\/p>\n Further Reading:<\/strong> Beachtek MCC-2 Review<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n Bottom line:<\/strong> Passive attenuators provide you with control over audio levels when working with strong audio signals. A simple option that delivers solid results, as long as you don’t need to increase<\/em> levels beyond a mic’s native output.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n If you want to increase<\/em> audio levels beyond a mic’s native output, you need a preamplifier<\/strong>. A preamp adds gain to boost an existing audio signal, and like a passive attenuator, it can also lower audio levels if necessary.<\/p>\n Preamps come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but it’s important to choose a high-quality preamp, as a low-quality preamp will introduce more noise into your audio.<\/p>\n Here are some examples of preamps for various needs and budget levels:<\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n The iRig Pre is actually intended for using professional XLR mics with smartphones, but with the right adapter cable, it’s actually a decent preamp for the price.<\/p>\n As it wasn’t built for use with cameras, the iRig Pre’s gain adjustment knob is small and recessed. Furthermore, the iRig Pre does not have any built-in mounting points, so you’ll need to figure out a way to attach it to your camera rig (cable ties?).<\/p>\n That said, if you need to use XLR mics with the GH4 and your budget it extremely limited, the iRig Pre might be a good fit.<\/p>\n If you don’t like the idea of using an adapter cable, here’s Deejay Scharton explaining how to hack the iRig Pre so that it can be directly connected to the GH4:<\/p>\n\n
Starting Point: The GH4’s Audio Input<\/h2>\n
Keep it Simple: Direct Input<\/h2>\n
At a Glance<\/h3>\n
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Pros<\/h3>\n
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Cons<\/h3>\n
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Examples<\/h3>\n
Rode Videomic Pro<\/h4>\n
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Rode Videomic Go<\/h4>\n
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Rode Lavalier<\/h4>\n
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A Dash of Control: Passive Attenuator<\/h2>\n
At a Glance<\/h3>\n
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Pros<\/h3>\n
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Cons<\/h3>\n
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Examples<\/h3>\n
Beachtek MCC-2 Audio Adapter<\/h4>\n
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Going Up: Preamp<\/h2>\n
At a Glance<\/h3>\n
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Pros<\/h3>\n
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Cons<\/h3>\n
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Examples<\/h3>\n
Budget: IK Multimedia iRig Pre<\/h4>\n
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